Halloween Busy Book

So, I'm a fan of busy books (or quiet books as they're known these days) because they are so fun with ENDLESS possibilities. Plus I had one as a child and I remember the fun I had with it. Recently I've been collecting ideas to make one, but haven't decided on quite what theme I want to do as of yet. However, I ran across some adorable halloween themed ones on Etsy which prompted me to want to do one for Tot only with some more age appropriate activities (the one I saw was more of a texture touch book).

Toddler Swing

Tot got a swing for her birthday. It is a big girl swing, and she had only been in one two other times, both with me and SS hovering around her giving dire warnings to hang on tight! After the swing was put together, she had fun but needed constant hover monitoring in order to go and be safe. (She promptly fell out her first solo flight.) So, we needed a transition swing, but these cost than the original swingset was, and none were exactly what I was envisioning. I wanted one she could climb in and out on her own, but just giving her the safety of the toddler swings.
Unfortunately I couldn't find anything that seemed to be what we needed.

So it was off to Joanne's Fabrics and I got some denim material and white webbing in order to create one!
(I bought denim for the strength and durability, and webbing to edge it off, also I bought them in the maroon and cream colors of her swingset, awesome! I also bought extra strength upholstry thread, although I don't think this was strictly required, I wanted to be sure it was durable.)

I had already had a T shaped pattern in mind, and I simply measured and pinned to know exactly where to sew. I needed two pockets on the sides for the chain to go through, and one on the bottom for the seat, and then simply sew it all together and finish off the edges.

Here it is all finished. Not quite as nicely as I'd envisioned, because the thickness of the materials were a little bit too much for my machine, so I had some fudging around the edges. I had trimmed the seams, but there were still areas I needed to sew through six or seven layers, and it was just a little too much for my non industrial machine.

And here it is installed on the swing. Lovely! I put extra webbing on the inside front where it will be rubbing on the swing. I did think about using snaps to attach it to the swing, but decided I wanted seams to increase the strength and trust. However, if you want to make one for the park swings, you could use snaps in order to get it on and off and take it with you.

As you can see, it works wonderfully! It gives the support in the back so there is no tumbling out while she learns out to get in and out and pump back and forth.

However, it is completely open in the front so she is not restricted and able to learn how to do things all by herself (including getting in and out!) with not so near hovering supervision required.

 So it was a project that took about two hours to cut assemble and sew, a little messier than I would've liked, but overall, it does the job, matches the swing and hopefully will be a big helper in this awkward transition period. Then when she is done, I can simply slip it off the swing and fold it up for next time.

Also, she likes using it as a hammock.

Flower Smocked Birthday Dress

So, while doing some browsing online, I found a wonderful picture tutorial on flower smocking (it was in Japenese, but since it was pictorial I was able to decipher what to do) and knew I HAD to try it!

Since Tot's birthday was coming up and I was feeling a distinct lack of pretty dresses that she hadn't worn out yet, and also since I had this material already....I made her a birthday dress.

The first thing to do was to figure out what I wanted the dress to look like, but I didn't sketch anything this time. I originally was going to do Simplicity's 2167 Pattern (probably because I fell in love with the owl, and really who doesn't love owls, even though it isn't in the pattern). But I decided that I would change it just a bit in order to incorporate a panel of flower smocking where the pillowcase should be inserted. That would make it too fancy so I would need to fancy up the top a bit and I used pattern 2569 and altered the two together. I also had to make a zipper cut in the back since 2167 didn't originally have one. I've done this before and sometimes it turns out better than others, but it will always leave a dart like pucker if you don't have a back seam. Since the skirt is already gathered, there wasn't too much of a problem with this.

So the next thing I had to do was figure out the measurements to cut the material piece to do the smocking on. This was both easier and harder than I first thought. I basically just had to figure out how big I wanted the flowers to be, and then how many would fit across and down the space. Once I knew that, I added the width and length by that number. Width = original width + (width of flower * number of flower in row) Same formula is used for the length. Some smocking leaves you with extra width or length, but this takes it all, so the formula is a bit easier to figure out. I used a grid to help me visualize what I needed.

After cutting the material, I started marking the grid. I highly recommend having a long enough ruler that you don't have to move it between marks. Makes it easier. OR better yet, a material with a square pattern so you have a premarked grid :)

Anyway, here is my material with the grid all marked out. It should be noted that whichever side the grid is one will be the front side, so if you don't have a washable mark it may show. Also, don't use disappearing ink unless you're only doing about three flowers because it takes too long to complete and your ink will have disappeared by then.

You can see that I've numbered the dots on the picture. This is just to show you the pattern to sew the smocking. This isn't actually written on my fabric. You start the needle through dot one, and move around the square in the ordered number going back to number one after four. This brings all the dots to one space. Then you have the four flower petals, you flatten them out so you have two on each side, and sew a knot through the middle, then flatten them the other way and knot again. Technically you're finished now, but I added a pearl on for the middle of the flower. A couple more knots and I was done. I only had to do that approximately 169 times.

This is how they look though, totally worth it, as they're GORGEOUS!!!!



 Work in progress, this is less than halfway done. And below are pictures from the back and a closeup of the back at about the half point. As you can see, smocking really is beautiful from either side. You just need to remember which side you want in front and run your connecting threads through the appropriate side. In this case, I cut and knotted the thread for each flower as I figured a three year old wouldn't be as careful wear and tear wise, and that way if one pearl came off, or one thread broke, it would only affect one flower and not a whole row of them. 

After I had the smocking done, I quickly sewed the bodice and decided to add some beading detail on it as well. So, I put some beads around the neckline and on the sleeve.

This is the front panel, which I sewed a lining on the back of to protect the smocking threads and knots. I sewed up all three sides (gathered to fit the panel width and length) and then most of the fourth and turned it before finishing up the fourth side. This is exactly how you would do a pillow, only I didn't stuff it. lol 

A picture of the bodice and front panel with all the beading work done. 

From there it was simply a matter of finishing the skirt, heming, sewing the panel in, lining with rick rack, and putting it all together. Also, I added the zipper in the back and sewed the ribbon on the waist (only around the front, leaving it free at the back to tie into a bow.)

Detail shot of the smocking beneath the side panel of the skirt.



I think it came out great!

So, will you be doing some smocking in the future?

Honeycomb Smocking

Wow does time fly! I've been busy creating and haven't posted in ages! So I need to get you up to speed on some of what has been taking up my time.

Here is a project I did way back in April but was essential to the evolution of what I'm currently working on.

Smocking is a lovely hand sewn touch to garments, mostly known for vintage baby christening gowns, or younger children's dresses. But it can be a lovely touch to any garment, and the differing ways to do it lend the variety needed to fit any occasion!

If you are just beginning, and want to try something out, I would suggest trying a honeycomb smocking on a fabric that is preprinted with squares. This way, you already have a natural grid and no measurements are needed to mark where you will stitch. Also, the honeycomb smocking is pretty much the basic one, however the other stitches are neither more or less difficult, but you may as well begin with the beginning!

Materials to use would be any cottons or lighter weight fabrics. If you have heavy fabric it may be too bulky in the end. Stay away from sheer fabrics as well, or your stitches will show when you move from one to the other.

Threads to use will depend on the project, but usually you will want an embroidery thread as it is stronger and also some of your stitches WILL show so you want a nice complementary color that works with your design and your fabric.

If you are making a garment you will need to remember that smocking takes away width and or length depending on which smocking stitch you use. You will need to figure out how much will be taken away and then cut the pattern longer/wider accordingly. Honeycomb smocking does not take length out, only width, so you can easily figure out how much extra you need by adding in the width of your square, times the number of squares you will sew.

It's easier if you think of it as a grid. More help on this with the pictures later.

Of course, me being me, I didn't start with just a piece of fabric, or even an unmade garment. I found this shirt and fell in love with the pattern and vibrant colors! Unfortunately, the only size available was a 2XL. Not quite my size. I decided that since I needed to take in some width, I would simply put a few rows of smocking in and leave the garment intact rather than trying to take in the seams, or put darts in a t-shirt. This would have the added benefit of a cute ruffled flare at the bottom, making it all the more dressy.

Since this is a floral pattern, I had no ready made grid, so first I figured out how big to make my squares, then I marked the grid on the back of the shirt. This DOES affect which side shows, so if you want the honeycomb showing on the front, you will need to mark the front of your fabric.

Once the grid is marked, you simply have to sew alternating dots one to the other. If you have four dots in your row, the first two and the last two will be joined, and the middle two will be left with a space between. If you're confused, you can draw a mockup on paper and point an arrow from one dot to the other to keep track. Or if you're sewing a practice, mark the fabric with a line between the two dots you wish to join. Remember to alternate. Then, on your second row, you will alternate and join the second and third, but NOT the first or last. It is harder to explain that it is to do. When you sew the dots together, you will want to take a small amount of fabric with your needle on each dot. I took about three mm on mine, but that will vary with the weave that you're working with.

You can do whatever works best with your fabric.

Here is the first stitch being pulled together. You can see the fabric pucker, which makes the smock. Your first dot will end up on top of your second dot. Then, you make a second stitch through the dots, and tie it off with a knot to hold the stitch.

 Going for the second stitch, I went straight down and picked up that dot and joined it with the one to the left. Remember alternate! :) (Now, if you're honeycombing the front, you would run the thread through the back of the fabric to start the second stitch. I was working with the BACK which is why I left the thread on this side to move from stitch to stitch. Keep that in mind as you see the remaining pictures. Also since this was going to have a lining, I used quilting thread instead of embroidery thread. If your garment will be against skin, especially for children's sensitive skin you definitely want embroidery thread as it is softer.)

Here is the start of the third stitch, going BACK to alternate the stitches.

Here are a few stitches done and you can see the pattern emerging.

Two rows done and starting the third, there is a definite honeycomb emerging.

And, the finished pattern on the INSIDE (remember I made my honeycomb on the WRONG side of the fabric)

And the smocking on the RIGHT side of the fabric. It has little rectangles instead of the honeycomb, which blend into the pattern a bit better. Since this shirt was too WIDE, but not to long, the honeycomb smocking was perfect as it takes width away, but does nothing to the length. 

I did this on both the front and the back. I never did get a picture of me in the finished product, so maybe in the future I'll add that, but that is all for now!
Stay tuned for more exciting smocked garments!

Easter Bunnies

So browsing Pinterest can have its good points, and of all the things I see, like, repin, or plan to incorporate, there occasionally comes something that actually gets done.

This Post from Purlbee.com was just so cute and springy that I HAD to do it.

Since Easter was coming on, and my white tulip bloomed I was purely in the mood for some spring, some easter, and some goodwill feelings.

The original plan was to purchase a pack of felt, but as time was marching on, I ended up purloining what I needed from a store I was keeping for a family member (with permission, of course!)

I drew my own template as the one that Purlbee provides was a lot larger than I wanted to go. Then you simply cut 2 of each color (and 2 white for each bunny).

To get step-by-step directions on how to sew them together, you can go to the original post, but it's a simple running stitch. You sew the four layers together on both sides, except the very bottoms and the ears. I used white embroidery floss for the running stitch, but split the six strands in half, using only three strands. The black and pink floss I kept at six strands for better coverage.

The first one I was so excited that I sewed it all together first, but then finding it difficult to get the needle all the way inside due to the smaller size, I started sewing in the eyes before sewing them together so the knot would be on the inside. This one just has to have eyelashes.

Here is a front view where you can see how the nose is sewn around the front edge of the four pieces. Pretty simple stuff.

Instead of using white floss for the whiskers, I used fishing line since I happened to already have a roll. I used the same technique of knotting each side that Pearlbee describes.

Then I discovered that the only yarn I had was red. Umm...not going to work for fluffy bunny tails.

After debating on several differing materials (polarfleece, lace, ribbon) I found these little shiny pom poms stored away from projects of yesteryear. So, I used them instead of making my own.

And here is a shot of all of them showing off that springy feel with the wonderful eastery color palatte.

They were a big hit, and the playing with got started as SOON as or even before they were completely finished.

What are you doing to Easter and Spring up your life?

Upcycling/Recycling holey socks

So, I didn't take any before or during pictures as the following project was done during a hectic day of laundry.

Sometimes I see things on pinterest that I just HAVE to try. Such as the following:


But, of course I have to change it up a bit.
I made mine out of socks that I had that had holes in toes and heels. I was able to cut different ones to get the parts I needed to make the animal with no holes in it.
I knew that I wouldn't be putting beads on it either, since I wanted it to be totally baby safe.
I also decided to fill it with rice instead of stuffing. It makes it heavier, which equals fun to T right now, and also I can microwave it to make it nice and warm for those times it's needed.

It was a big hit, and it is totally cute for such a thrown together afternoon project.

The eyes and nose are all thread, which I sewed on in a satin stitch. I purposely turned the fuzzy side out just for character. All in all he turned out cute and T loves him, which is the important thing.

Rolled Hemming

I usually shuddered at the thought of doing a rolled hem on a sheer fabric (which of couse tends to fray). I never seemed to be able to get each fold just right and my edges were always full of puckers and twists. Just the thought of it made me pause when choosing fabric, and yet the princessy feel of all those lovely lightweight and perfectly spring-breeze prints and solids, I just HAD to keep them in my sewing plans.

Fear not!

For doing rolled hems is almost child's play if you have a rolled hem foot for your machine!

As you can see in the picture below, the regular foot is on the machine, and the rolled hem foot is on the right, so you can see what it looks like on it's own. If you don't have one, they're an easy purchase, almost all machines come with one, but they are only about $6.00 at a fabric/craft store if you need a new one.

It can be tricky to get right if you don't know how to use it, and the following pictures have things wrong in them just so you can be aware of what to look out for.

Here you can see the fabric is not inside the roller on the presser foot, and is bunching towards the right side instead.

 This is what happens: The hem doesn't roll and even though it is folded over once, you're left with a raw edge that frays.

Below the fabric was pulling too far to the left of the presser foot, and so the fabric bunches and twists instead of rolling and lying flat.

Here is the correct way to use the rolled hem foot. First, you will start by hand rolling the hem, and putting all the fabric underneath the whole presser foot, just as normal. Stich about an inch or so, and then leaving your needle down, you can raise the foot and maneuver the fabric into the the rolling part and then lower it back down and continue stitching. You will want the fabric aligned correctly as in the picture below. Note that the right edge of the fabric is aligned with the left edge of the right side of the foot. And the raw edge of the fabric is aligned with the right side of the opening on the foot. You will want to maintain that all the way around your fabric edge and it will give you the perfect and flat rolled hem you desire.

 If you come across a seam, you can simply leave your needle down an inch or so before you get there, raise the foot, unhook the fabric, roll by hand, and sew as if you had a normal presser foot on the machine until you get to an inch beyond the seam, and then leaving your needle down, you can raise the foot, and get the fabric into your roller again to continue sewing with the rolled hem foot. It comes out with the beautiful edge in the picture below.

So don't be scared, get out there and work with sheers! Your edges will be as light and breezy as the fabrics you choose!

By the way, rolled hems can also be done with heavier fabrics, but you'll want to have a bigger rolled hem foot. If you look at the bottom, you'll be able to see how wide the gap in the foot is, which is how big your hem will be. Lighter fabrics use smaller hems, and heavier fabrics need wider hems. You can get varying sizes depending on what type of projects you'll be hemming.